blog Post #3: how has the integration of celebrities in creative director roles affected the growth and trajectory of fashion?

 

Welcome back!

Following the steps I have mentioned in my project plan, i will begin with my first foot of my research with the former post as an outline. In this blog post I will mainly be giving a history lesson on the history and growth of creative directors up to our current times to give a foundation and a refresh on terms and the roles that occupy the fashion industry. Specifically I will be delving into the role itself and how the position became so glamores in the first place!

Firstly lets start with what the role is and what it means to be a creative director! Although this question sounds simple the answer itself is a little more complex than what meets the eye. In the past, a creative directors only role was to oversee the designs which were made under the brands name and make sure the products being made aligned with the brans image while also ensuring quality was being kept. Almost like a manager, but instead of a team it is an entire collection and multitudes of teams that you are responsible. In simpler terms you may even think of them as the “CEO” of the actual fashion aspect not the logistics and company part. Although you don’t need a degree from well renowned fashion school to become a director, it is crucial to understand that almost every single successful figure has had extensive experience either interning in the fashion industry or an apprentice for world renowned designers (1).

Either way, they have the shared experience of working under other powerful directors who have either traditional fashion training or some sort of mentor. It is crucial to have this experience as this not only extends ones network of fashion officials but also allows for a better directors as one is immersed in the culture and unspoken rules of the fashion industry. Aside from the traditional requirements of this role, the more kinetic requirements is to have an innovating vision. Without a deep understanding of fashion, culture, and your own creative vision, these are skills which are sharpened and aquiered over time. Finally, the biggest requirement is to be able communicate. It is great to have all these prior skills which were mentioned, but without good communication skills and an ability to bring these visions to life in the best possible way, it is almost impossible to become a director (2).

Now that we have talked about the basic requirements of a creative director and what it was like to be one in the past, lets talk about the implications and the history of creative directors and whats its like to be one today.

Within the last 5 years, and with the rise of social media, the creative director role has grown drastically from what it was almost a decade ago. Presently, creative directors are not only expected to do what they were doing in the past but also look over the brands entire image, presence, political associations, fashion shows, and marketing themes. In addition, the directors themselves become a public “face” for the brand they represent, hence their every move is examined closely and must align to the image of their fashion house. The position shouldn’t be taken lightly as one must live, breath, and be “on” almost 24/7. This large shift between the culture surrounding the position has made many brands look and hire those who have the largest following on social media/the most well known globally as they feel the marketing made off of the position is valued higher then the technical and creative side of what the position has to offer (3).

 

With that being said, what is the culture revolving the current creative directors? Most of todays fashion has shown that these strong and traditional fashion houses have shifted towards a pop culture focused vision, hence the focus on celebrities in fashion houses. Ultimately focusing on a commerce view, profit, and who is the “bigger” and more famous brand. However, many fashion enthusiatests are protesting this shift. Personally, with this shift in focus, it seems that fashion is becoming less of a prestigious creative and artistic field which focuses on emotions and progression, but a regular brand/company like every other commercial field out there (4).

Now that I have delved into the political history of creative directors, I’d also like to mention some of the most famous creative directors who have pioneered this field and impacted some of the most influential moments in fashion without us knowing, including some of my own personal favourites.

• Anthony Vaccarello, who has spent some time creating his own label while frequenting as creative directors in brands like Fendi, Versace, and his current role as creative director at Yves Saint Laurent. He is one of the foremost designers who’s work speaks for themselves and keeps a quieter face then many of the other well known designers. (5)

 

• Olivier Rousteig, arguably one of the most famous creative directors of our time whos public image is just as sought after as the bran he works for, Balmain. He is one of the youngest and most creative of the most ambitious of the bunch. Setting a sky rocket record of becoming the first brand to suprass one million on instagram and at the ripe age of 24. He is the prime example of balance between the old culture and new culture surrounding creative directors. His brilliant leadership and designs allow Balmain to stay aligned with their trade mark look while still creating recent trends and collaborating largely with celebrity figures including Kylie Jenner and Kylie cosmetics.(5)

• Sandra Choi, awarded with the best shoe collection award at Prix D’Excellence de la Mode Marie Claire. No less is expected of the creative director of Jimmy choo! Sandra choi is your prime example of “let the papers show”. Her experience and studies at Central Saint Martins, is by itself a coveted degree. However with her joined business sense, extensive networking within the shoe industry, and the same creative eye as her uncle, Jimmy choo himself, she has revisioned the brand into the classic, timeless, and trending brand it is today. (5)

My personal favourite and quite literally the most influential creative director ever to live, Mr. Alexander McQueen, of his namesake brand Alexander McQueen. Arguably the most celebrated fashion icon to live, his reign as a creative director knew no bounds.

His vision was an extraordinary look into fashion that nobody had at the time let alone now. He not only has the extensive schooling many look to for a fashion degree but he was traditionally trained at Savile Row, the historic and coveted position which he gained at 16 years old. His later on protege work under designers like Koji Tatsuno and tailoring brand like Gieves & Hawkes, allowed him to take over Givenchy and succeed the one and only John Galliano. Alexander McQueen’s legacy left such a mark in the fashion industry it is almost like there is a mark in fashion history. There once was “BAM” – before alexander McQueen, and “AAM” after alxeander McQueen. (6)

Thank you so much for reading and I hope you enjoyed this in-depth lesson on creative directors!

-Sanam M.

 

1. Graziano, G. (2022, July 21). The role of the creative director in fashion – what they do and how to become one. GLAM OBSERVER. https://glamobserver.com/the-role-of-the-creative-director-in-fashion-what-they-do-and-how-to-become-one/
2. Windermere, A. (2018, June 29). The skills for a creative director in Fashion. Work. https://work.chron.com/skills-creative-director-fashion-16930.html
3. Parisi, D. (2021, December 20). The evolving role of the fashion creative director. Glossy. https://www.glossy.co/fashion/the-evolving-role-of-the-fashion-creative-director/
4. Cooper, L. F. (2023, March 30). Nothing is forever: How fashion’s creative director exodus will shape the industry. Vanity Fair. https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2023/03/how-fashions-creative-director-exodus-will-shape-the-industry
5. Barnett, D. (n.d.). 10 Creative Directors at Fashion Brands. Fashionmonitor.com. https://www.fashionmonitor.com/blog/cj/10-creative-directors-at-fashion-brands
6. Alexander McQueen – an introduction · V&A. Victoria and Albert Museum. (n.d.). https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/alexander-mcqueen-an-introduction